Monday, August 4, 2008

Reverse Floating Walls in Basement Construction

When you are working in expansive soil such as clay and other soils that expand with moisture content, you need to take special precautions to keep from having structural damage to the foundation and basement walls. One of these precautions is floating walls. A floating wall is not attached at top and bottom like most walls. Floating a wall is able to move with the house and keeps you from having cracks open up in your floor, foundation and walls as the moisture content in the soil changes.

Floating basement walls are usually attached to the floor joists for the first floor and then spiked to the floor allowing a space below the wall. This space is covered by the baseboards and isn't seen.

A reverse floating wall is attached to the floor. You place the floor on the base plate on the floor and you spike it at the top so that the wall is stable but only attached at the bottom. This is done on wet walls to keep the plumbing stable. The open space is at the top of the walls and is covered by moulding. You can cover the whole wall with sheetrock but you need to take care to leave the top open for movement. This means you cannot attach drywall to the wall all of the way to the top or it will crack as the wall moves with moisture changes in the soil.

For reverse floating walls follow the basic instructions for floating a wall but instead of 16D0hanging the wall from the floor joist, you will attach the floor to the base plate and spike to the top plate. Make sure your wall is plumb. If you do not have the wall exactly square it will cause problems. A space of 4 inches is needed at the top of the wall. The wall needs to be spiked in the same way as a normal floating wall too, just at the top instead of the bottom. See instructions for floating wall for more information.

To cover the open area at the top of the wall you can use moulding. Many people do not like the look of moulding around their ceiling. If you want alternatives you can look into having a drop ceiling that can move with the walls and floor. You would need to attach the framing for the ceiling to the frames for the walls. When the house breathes your whole room will move and you will not notice it.

Visit us for more information on basement makeovers, waterproofing basement products and basement sealing paints.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

How to Plan and Estimate Costs for a Bathroom Remodeling Project

Remodeling a bathroom can be an exciting and fun experience, particularly if your bathroom has outdated baby blue or pink tile covering the walls. Planning and estimating bathroom remodeling costs prior to starting the project however is critical for ensuring a completely positive experience.

Today many new bathroom remodeling jobs include Jacuzzi tubs or whirlpool baths, along with separate showers. In addition there are a multitude of toilet, vanity, countertop and s1315ink styles to choose from. Costs for these items vary widely.

If planned properly a bathroom remodeling project can be accomplished on a shoestring budget and still look like youve completely transformed the room. It depends only on your creativity and level of sweat equity. All new bathroom fixtures are not critical in remodeling a bathroom. Many fixtures can be restored to a brand new appearance with just a little time and sweat equity. In some cases, such as with toilets, it is frequently the preferred route. Older toilets use more water per flush than the new models. Though the new ones are environmentally friendlier, they have a reputation for clogging and thus many people choose to preserve their older toilets in a bathroom remodeling project.

The bathroom is one of the most important rooms in the house. It is usually where you start and end your day. Thus the return on investment for remodeling a bathroom is fairly high. Consequently it makes a great deal of sense to spend some money and remodel a bathroom, even if you do not plan on being in the house for a long time.

A bathroom remodeling project however can be a messy and annoying home improvement project. Frequently bathrooms are right off bedrooms or in the master bedroom. Consequently they can cause significant disruptions and cleanliness issues with your home. And the length of the disruption can take as long as a month or more, even when well planned out.

To mitigate the disruption of a bathroom remodeling project, planning is absolutely essential. The first item to consider is whether you will do it yourself, or hire a general contractor. Regardless of what route, a homeowner needs to first sketch out some bathroom remodeling ideas to ensure the bathroom design and cost estimates will meet their targeted functional requirements and budget. If a general contractor is to be hired these initial sketches will be helpful in communicating your bathroom remodeling plans and ideas.

During the planning phase, you should identify the main objectives of the future bathroom. Is a Jacuzzi or whirlpool tub desired? Is a pedestal sink preferred over a traditional vanity? You should research the latest products on the market including: cabinets/vanities, countertops, toilets, shower/tubs and flooring. Also, homeowners are now more frequently using tile in bathrooms, both on the floors and walls. Tile adds a look of elegance to a bathroom that is not captured with vinyl or Linoleum flooring materials.

It is also important to consider any structural changes to the existing bathroom area. In particular, if a Jacuzzi or whirlpool tub is to be installed a deck area will probably need to be framed in. In addition, if overhead lighting is desired then soffits may need to be framed in.

Your initial sketches of your bathroom remodeling plan should include the basic layout of the bathroom with the toilet, shower/tub and vanity locations identified. In addition, dimensions should be included in the sketches. Also, if there are already known preferred manufacturers for the various bathroom utilities then they should also be included on the sketches. Once the sketches have been completed it is time to contact a remodeling general contractor. They should be able to work from your sketches to develop a firm fixed quotation on the bathroom remodeling project.

For more help on remodeling your bathroom, see HomeAdditionPlus.coms Bathroom Remodeling Bid Sheet. The Bathroom Remodeling Bid Sheet will help ensure that your bathroom remodeling project goes smoothly and you get the finished bathroom you are looking for. In addition, it will help to ensure that your remodeled bathroom will be accomplished on time and on budget.

Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Installing Retrofit and Replacement Vinyl Windows

In previous articles i explained to you how to determine whether your windows are candidates for vinyl replacement style frames or retrofit style frames. This week I'm going to explain the installation techniques for both frame styles. Let's start with the retrofit frame.

Retrofit window installation is really the easiest of all. The retrofit window already comes with an exterior trim attached. That's the flush fin that goes against the outside surface, usually stucco. Prepare the window by drilling 3/8" holes in the areas of the frame where you w14C8ant to screw it in place. Normally, there will be 3 holes on each side and 3 more across the top. Don't predrill any holes in the bottom track. After removing the old panels, you want to run a heavy bead of caulk on the face of the old aluminum frame that you left in place. Then you and a helper set the bottom of the vinyl window onto the old aluminum bottom track and raise it into position. The flush fin or retrofit lip will act as a "stop" to hold the window in place. Have your helper hold the window while you go inside.

Once inside, you want to center the window in the opening. Slide the vent panel open and closed to make sure the window is plumb and level. To adjust for out of square conditions, shim the bottom right or left corner by placing a shimming material between the sill and bottom of the window frame. Once square, drive a 3" deck screw through the 3/8" holes and into the wood studs.Just seat the screw, don't overtighten. After you get the screws into the sides and top, remove the sliding panel. The bottom track should lift out. Look for drainage holes in the track and insert a thin screwdriver and lift up. Drive one screw in the bottom center, caulk around the screw head, then put the track back in place and re-install the sliding panel. Now, you want to go back outside and caulk the gap where the retrofit fin meets the exterior surface of the house. You want to have a double barrier of protection against water infiltration. Remember, you already applied a generous bead of caulk before inserting the new frame into the opening. The rest of the job is done on the inside.

First, you want to plug the 3/8" screw holes to hide the heads of the screws. We sell the hole plugs on the website. Just click on the "shop" tab to see a picture. The plugs will pop into place in the hole. The next step is to fill the gap around the new frame with R-13 Insulation. Do not use the foam insulation that comes in a can. Many manufacturers will not honor the warranty if the foam is used. Even the non expanding foams can cause the frame to distort, causing problems. Pack the insulation in tight. You might want to wear a dust mask during this procedure. Many people, myself included, are very sensitive to insulation. After the insulation is in place, you want to install trim around the inside to finish the job. You can use wood trim from the hardware store, or some other product. But in my experience, the best product is a vinyl flat trim that matches the window frame. The flat trim can also be purchased on the website under the "shop" tab, or you could try to find it from a local window contractor. Ours comes in 3 different widths, although the 1 3/4" wide piece is by far the most common. The trim has a double sided adhesive tape on the back. You cut the top and bottom first, stick them on the vinyl frame, making sure the trim goes to the drywall. This covers all the insulation and the old metal frame. Do the side pieces next. The final step is to caulk where the trim meets the walls.

Much of the installation process for a replacement frame is the same as the retrofit frame. But, there are a few differences. When you put the new window into the opening using a replacement frame, you don't have the flush fin holding the frame in place. You and your helper have to hold the frame in place while you put a screw in the top center to support the frame. Then, you can do your adjusting for a square condition. All of the procedures on the inside will be exactly the same, from hole plugs, to insulation, to trim and caulk. The outside is different. You have to apply the trim that was part of the retrofit frame. Again, I prefer the flat trim. Once again, you apply a bead of caulk to the old frame,then measure and cut the top and bottom trim pieces. Apply the adhesive part of the trim to the vinyl frame, and let the other part contact the bead of caulk. Trim all four sides, then caulk again where the trim meets the exterior material.

As you can see, it really doesn't matter if the exterior of your home is brick, stone, siding, or stucco. You can install vinyl windows without having to damage the surrounding structure. We have step by step instructional videos for sale on the website at how-to-install-windows.com. Next week we are going to start discussing sliding glass door replacement.

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

Caring For Your Wood Deck

One of natures the most distinctive and beautiful building materials is wood. A wood deck will provide a beautiful and useful addition to your home, but must be cared for properly as it requires protection from the elements and regular maintenance.

The decreasing fall temperatures make this the perfect time to finish or refinish your deck and protect it against the onset of winter weather.

The floor or horizontal surface area of your deck is exposed to all that nature can deliver in harsh and harmful environmental conditions. Ultraviolet rays from the sun penetrate the wood su16B0rfaces, destroying the lignin. Lignin is the resin that holds the wood fibers together in a bundle. Dirt can then permeate the surface and lodge between the wood fibers. Water from sprinklers, rain, and snow creates swelling within the wood fibers and then when the water evaporates the wood shrinks. This continuous swelling and shrinking creates splitting and cracking of the boards. Moisture lodged in the wood will generate the growth of mildew and molds.

To protect your investment you must finish the deck surfaces. Proper preparation and application of a deck coating system will dramatically extend the life and appearance of your deck.

As with most projects, the initial preparation is the key to a successful and appealing finished product. When finishing a deck the initial surface preparation is key, as 95% of deck finish failures are a direct result of improper preparation and/or product application.

The horizontal surfaces of your deck take much more punishment from the occupants of the home, their guests, and the environment. Hence, the horizontal surfaces require more preparation than the vertical surfaces. The time spent in surface preparation will show itself in the finished project.

All stains, paints, and other finishes require a clean surface, free of dust, dirt, grease, mildew, and mold, if they are going to penetrate and bond to the wood. Loose fibers and the mills original glaze must be removed.

If you are serious about maintaining the investment in your deck talk to a professional at one of the many high-end retail paint stores. These people exist by the repeat business of satisfied customers, their staff is trained and experienced and usually have many years of expertise specifically in stains, paints and finishes. This is not a time to do business at a big box retailer.

For additional information on wood decks or other home renovation projects, visit Renovation Headquarters at http://www.renovation-headquarters.com

Friday, August 1, 2008

Create A Perfect Bathroom Setting With Bathroom Stone Tile

Natural stone tiles offer durability yet require low maintenance. With the wide variety of stone tiles to select from, you can surely find the one that will suit your bathroom. Among the types of stones to choose from are marble, limestone, travertine, slate, granite and sandstone. With bathroom stone tile, you can put in a splash of hue, or you can just keep the tiles neutral so you can put color with embellishment, accessories and furniture.

Because of their inherent properties, stone tiles are very suitable for your bathroom renovation project. They are tough and resistant to stains and wear and they are available in an extensive range of finishes and colors. There are lots of things, however, that you need to consider in using stone tile for you bathroom.

Various Types of Natural Stone

1. Slate - This incredibly durable stone has a natural, untamed splendor and is really perfect for bathroom use. Slate requires little maintenance and is very easy to clean. In fact, you can make this stone almost totally resistant to stains. It comes in wide range of colors and its texture is rough, making it non-slippery.

2. Marble - This type of stone carries the look of refinement for many centuries now. It has a remarkable hue and its surface can be polished to bring out an unmatched shine. Because of these characteristics, marble tiles can truly help you in creating a remarkable effect in your shower room. But there are some important things that you need to know about this particular stone type before choosing this for your bathroom. First, its high polish, which makes it look so elegant, is very slippery when wet. Also, marble is delicate, making it prone to chipping. Furthermore, marble is the type of stone that's chemical based so if any chemical acids spilled on it, it will badly stain when not treated.

3. Travertine and Limestone - These stones have the same properties - they are more porous and softer than granite or slate. Their earth color makes them lovely in a bathroom setting. However, they aren't very resistant to stains and they are not as durable as slate and quartzite.

4. Quartzite - Among the available stones, quartzite is one of the most resilient and hardest. The color of this type of stone ranges from recurring sequential structures to multicolored unique patterns, depending on the kind of quartzite that's being used. This type of stone is perfect for your bathroom because of its resistance to water and stain, its durability and its non-slippery texture.

5. Sandstone - This stone is a sophisticated choice for your bathroom stone tile because of its gentle structure and earthen colors. The only downside is that sandstone is permeable and soft so it needs to be chemically treated semi regularly to avoid stains.

Other things that must be put into consideration are the color of the bathroom tiles, the finish, the pattern that you want to create and its maintenance.

For ideas on bathroom tile design, visit http://www.bathroomtile101.com.